Ammunition buying guide: cost per round, case types, bullet types and storage

Divide the total price by the number of rounds. A box price means little on its own, because boxes come in 20, 50, 100, 500 and 1,000 round counts. Cost per round, often written CPR and quoted in cents, puts every offer on the same scale.

Use the full cost, not the sticker price. Add shipping, sales tax and any handling fee before you divide. Ammunition is heavy, so shipping can erase the advantage of a low listed price on a small order, while a bulk case with free shipping can beat a cheaper looking box. The formula is simple: price plus shipping plus tax, divided by rounds.

Prices move constantly with supply, demand and raw material costs, so any number printed in an article goes stale quickly. The 2A List ammo pages list in-stock offers from multiple retailers sorted by cost per round, with recent price history, so you can see the current range for your caliber before you buy.

Brass is the standard, steel is usually the cheapest, and aluminum sits in between as a light, low cost range option. The case holds the primer, powder and bullet together and seals the chamber when the round fires. The material affects price, reloading and, sometimes, where you are allowed to shoot it.

Brass cases are the most widely used, seal the chamber well, resist corrosion and can be reloaded. Steel cases cost less to make and generally are not reloaded. Some firearms run steel-cased ammunition without trouble, while others extract it less reliably, so test a small quantity in your gun before buying a case. Aluminum cases are light, inexpensive and not reloadable.

Check range rules before you buy. Some ranges, especially indoor ranges, do not allow steel-cased ammunition or bullets with steel in the jacket or core, and many check with a magnet. Ranges that collect and sell spent brass may also restrict steel and aluminum cases. A quick call saves you from owning ammunition you cannot use locally.

Grain weight is the weight of the bullet, not the amount of powder. A grain is a small unit of weight, and there are 7,000 grains in a pound. A 115 grain 9mm bullet weighs about a quarter of an ounce.

Most cartridges are sold in a few common bullet weights. For 9mm Luger, 115, 124 and 147 grain loads are common. For .45 ACP, 230 grain is the traditional weight. For .22 LR, 36 to 40 grain loads are typical. In general, a lighter bullet in the same cartridge leaves the barrel faster and a heavier bullet leaves slower, and the two can feel different in recoil.

For practice, pick a common weight that runs reliably in your gun and costs the least per round. If you carry defensive ammunition, many shooters practice with the same bullet weight so the point of impact and recoil feel similar. Your sights and your gun's reliability with a load matter more than the number on the box.

FMJ is for practice, and JHP is for defense. A full metal jacket bullet has a lead core wrapped in a harder metal jacket. It is inexpensive to make, feeds smoothly and holds its shape when it hits a target, which is fine for paper and steel targets rated for it.

A jacketed hollow point has a cavity in the nose and is designed to expand when it hits. Expansion slows the bullet and makes it less likely to pass through the target and keep going. That is the main reason hollow points are the common choice for self-defense and law enforcement use. They cost more per round than FMJ, often much more.

Whatever you choose for defense, fire enough of it through your own gun and magazines to confirm it feeds and functions every time. Some ranges also have rules on bullet types, so check before you go. Hunting bullets are a separate subject with their own state rules.

+P marks a cartridge loaded to a higher pressure than the standard version of the same cartridge. SAAMI, the US industry standards body, publishes separate +P standards for a few cartridges, including 9mm Luger, .38 Special and .45 Auto. Higher pressure generally means more velocity, more recoil and more wear on the firearm.

Use +P only if the firearm's manufacturer says the gun is rated for it. Check the owner's manual or the manufacturer's website, not a forum. Older firearms and very small, light guns are the usual exceptions. If the manual is silent or you cannot find one, contact the manufacturer before firing +P.

SAAMI's interchangeability list shows that a firearm marked .38 Special +P can fire standard .38 Special. The reverse is not automatic. For range practice, standard pressure ammunition costs less and is easier on the gun and the shooter.

It can be, but quality depends entirely on who made it. Remanufactured ammunition is loaded by a company using previously fired cases that have been inspected, cleaned, resized and loaded with a new primer, powder and bullet. New ammunition uses all new components. Remanufactured rounds usually cost less per round, which is the appeal for high volume practice.

The risk is inconsistency. A case can be weakened by earlier firings, and a charge that is too light or too heavy can damage a gun or injure the shooter. Established commercial remanufacturers inspect cases, control powder charges and carry insurance. Ammunition reloaded by a stranger and sold in a bag offers none of that. Under federal law, a business that manufactures ammunition for sale must hold a federal license.

Many firearm manufacturers state in their manuals that using reloaded or remanufactured ammunition can void the warranty, so read yours. If you buy remanufactured, buy from a known company, inspect the rounds and keep it for practice. Use new factory ammunition for defense.

In most states, yes. ATF states that an unlicensed person may obtain ammunition from an out-of-state source, provided they are not prohibited from possessing or receiving ammunition. Under 18 U.S.C. 922(b)(1), a licensed seller may not sell any ammunition to a person under 18, and may sell only rifle or shotgun ammunition to a person under 21. Retailers verify age in different ways.

Some states add their own rules. California Penal Code 30312 requires ammunition ordered online or from outside the state to be received first by a licensed California ammunition vendor, and the California Department of Justice says buyers must pass an eligibility check before the sale. A federal court challenge, Rhode v. Bonta, is pending before the full Ninth Circuit, which vacated an earlier panel ruling in December 2025. As of September 2026 the department still lists the check as required.

New York requires a background check through the State Police before a licensed dealer or registered seller of ammunition may transfer ammunition. Under Penal Law 400.03, a commercial ammunition sale must go through a New York dealer or registered seller, and the handover to the buyer must happen in person. In practice an online order ships to a New York dealer or registered seller, where the buyer passes the check and picks it up.

A few other places require a state license or ID to buy ammunition. Illinois requires a Firearm Owner's Identification Card to acquire or possess ammunition. Connecticut requires a carry permit, an eligibility certificate or an ammunition certificate. The District of Columbia requires an in person sale and a firearm registration certificate for the same caliber. Online retailers publish lists of places they will not ship to, so check your state police or attorney general page before you order.

Expect ground shipping only. The Postal Service prohibits small arms ammunition in the mail. UPS accepts ordinary cartridges as a Limited Quantity shipment by UPS Ground within the 48 contiguous states, with separate ground service inside Alaska and on Oahu, and will not ship ammunition to anyone under 18. FedEx treats ammunition as dangerous goods or hazardous materials. An adult signature may be required at delivery.

Store ammunition in a cool, dry place in its original packaging, away from solvents, chemicals, heat sources and open flame. That is SAAMI's published guidance. SAAMI also advises storing ammunition separately from firearms and out of reach of children and anyone else who should not have access.

Heat and humidity are what age ammunition. SAAMI warns that extended exposure to high temperature or high humidity can damage it, and that leaving ammunition in a vehicle for long periods in the sun or heat can speed the breakdown of the powder. Water, oils, solvents and ammonia can also damage cartridges. A closet shelf in a climate controlled home is better than a garage, attic or car trunk.

Factory ammunition carries no expiration date, and rounds that have been stored well commonly remain usable for many years. Age matters less than storage history. Inspect before use and do not fire rounds with corrosion, deep dents, loose bullets or signs of water exposure. Ask your local police, fire department or range how to dispose of damaged ammunition.

• Keep it cool, dry and in the original box or a container made for ammunition
• Keep it away from solvents, oils, cleaning chemicals and heat
• Do not leave it in a vehicle for long periods
• Lock it up separately from firearms where children or visitors may be present
• Use the oldest stock first and inspect every round you load

Match the cartridge name on the box to the marking on your firearm's barrel, slide or frame. SAAMI's guidance is that the designation on the cartridge headstamp should match the designation marked on the firearm. A round that fits in the chamber is not proof that it is safe to fire.

Names can be confusing. 9mm Luger, 9x19 and 9mm Parabellum are the same cartridge. .380 ACP, also called 380 Auto, is a different and shorter cartridge, and 9mm Makarov is different again. .45 ACP and 45 Auto are the same. When the names on the box and the gun do not match exactly, check the owner's manual or ask the manufacturer.

A few combinations are accepted as safe by SAAMI, such as firing .38 Special in a revolver chambered for .357 Magnum. The reverse is not safe. Never fire a cartridge that needs unusual force to chamber.